A tool should do half the work. Here are some of the tools that were used to build the Dalziel Barn. Even a small axe can fell a big tree... or build a log barn to stand for 200 years.
English Felling Axe... Used for chopping trees, scoring logs, and splitting wood for the fire.
American Felling Axe... Was more durable than the English axe but not as sharp. The American axe became the standard in Ontario because, when out in the bush, you could chop with a dull blade, but not a broken one. Other differences were the slight curve in the handle and the poll - the extension of the metal head beyond the curved handle.
Hewing / Broad Axe... Used for hewing/squaring logs for the cabin or barn. The handle/helve was off-set so the hewer could stand over the log while shaving the appropriate side. To ensure the log edge would be as smooth as possible the blade of the hewing axe was flat on one side. Notice the wedge inserted into the top of the handle to prevent the head from flying off. Wedges were not peculiar to hewing axes. Most axes have some kind of wedge inserted at some point in their life span.
Adze... Used with the hewing axe to make the log faces as smooth as possible. Any divots, chunks, or "juggle marks" in the logs made by the hewing axe allow water to penetrate the wood, creating rot. In winter, this moisture will form ice build-up, stress the wood and cause the building to shift. Here's an illustration by barn historian Eric Sloane showing how the adze shaved down the log to an even surface once the hewing axe was finished.
Beetle... This fat, heavy hammer was used for big jobs. Its diameter can range from 4 to 7 inches. The beetle was good for pounding joints into place when assembling a log structure, banging wooden dowels and pegs into place when constructing a post & beam structure (see video in Raise the Barn), hammering wedges to split logs (as pictured at top), and a lot of other jobs. The beetle has a handle between 2 and 3 feet long. The iron hoops around the ends are for strength. They also add extra weight to increase the impact from the hammer's blow.
Froe... The cutting edge was not swung but hammered. The flat edge could be struck with a mallet, maul, or a small beetle while the cutting edge split the wood. In this drawing by C.W.Jeffreys, the man is using a maul to split a block of wood with a froe to make shakes (roof shingles). Froes were commonly 12" long at the blade.
Mortise Chisel... The farmer used the mortise chisel to make holes to match his tenon. To get a square corner to fit the tenon, a corner chisel was used. Here's an example of the tenon fitting into the mortise hole on top and a version of the shouldered m&t joint on the bottom. There are few mortise & tenon joints in log buildings like the Dalziel Barn, which tend to use dovetail joints; however, the bent dividing the drive floor of the Dalziel Barn has been assembled with mortise and tenon joints.